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She Sheds: Today's answer to man caves

OK. We may be entering some dangerous territory here as I write about a new gardening trend, but bear with me. For years the guys have had their man caves, complete with big-screen TVs, surround sound and a license to have their “sacred private space.
 
Now it’s our turn. When I tell my friends that my husband Rick is building a garden house for me, people immediately ask me if I’ve seen the insurance commercial about the She Shed that burns down. That’s not really the way to start a conversation. Gardening, and all that goes with it, is a very serious topic. 
 
A brand-new book just came about from Quarto Publishing Group, which specializes in all kinds of gardening books. It is called “She Shed Style,” written by Erika Kotite, who also authored “She Sheds.”
 
The hard-cover, full-color book is gorgeous, but even more importantly, it’s filled with all kinds of decorating and DYI ideas to create a personalized She Shed that reflects your personality and style. From building an open-sided potting shed with loads of windows and plenty of shelf space for working, to designing a home-away-from-home with room for napping, reading or pursuing a hobby, Kotite has captured the essence of all things stylish. 
 
She delves into the architectural choices of She Sheds, ones that can range from a simple three-sided cubby in the garden to elaborate stand-alone rooms furnished with antiques, hand-made floor coverings and chandeliers. A She Shed can be as simple as a big-box retailer out-building to a custom-built all-glass cottage. Add an overhanging roof of four to six feet for storing garden tools, or create a patio covered by a pergola and draped with outdoor café lights.
 
Her book illustrates how to incorporate work space for journaling or letter writing, without taking up too much space. Create seating areas that encourage conversation, and add storage by building shelves above windows that can also be used to display your treasures. Hang colorful glass balls or floats from the ceiling at varying heights to provide dimension. 
 
Add interior space dividers using louvered folding doors as screens or drape soft fabric to hide clutter. Consider putting in a wood floor and stenciling it to create the look of brick or tile. 
 
Window treatments, if you even choose to use them, can be made of dishtowels knotted on wooden sticks or branches. Take an old suitcase, cover it with brightly colored fabric and you’ve got an ottoman. 
 
Furnishings can serve several purposes. A table with a shelf below can hold baskets to store supplies. A trunk or chest, repurposed, distressed and painted with chalk paint, can be both a coffee table and additional storage.
 
Shop consignment stores, antique shops and yard sales to find fun and whimsical items. Kotite added an old mantel and a couple of mirrors in one design. In another, she used broken china to create colorful stepping stones outside. Old doors can be retrofitted to provide a welcoming entrance.
 
I found a great Tiffany-style hanging light fixture that’s perfect above a wicker rocker in my little house. Another shopping trip yielded glass containers that I can use for flower arrangements. Souvenirs from my travels, such as a glass ball etched with a shamrock from Ireland, will also have a home in my She Shed. 
 
My She Shed has a name. It’s Rose Cottage, to go along with our having named our home Rose Lane in memory of my mother, whose name was Rosa. We have dozens of rose bushes, many of them hybrid tea cutting roses that I share with friends from May through mid-November.
 
As spring approaches, now is the time to daydream about what you can do to create your own She Shed. Check out “She Shed Style” by Erika Kotite for ideas. It’s available on Amazon.
 
 
 

Pamela A. Keene is our senior staff writer and a Hall County Master Gardener.








November 2018 column

Winter color? Try new Cool Wave Pansies and more

A package arrived a couple of weeks ago from a public relations firm with a surprise – a dozen of the newest Cool Wave Pansies. As a garden writer I occasionally receive samples and trial plants with the stipulation that I report back to the growers about results in my Northeast Georgia garden.
 
Wave plants had been on my radar, especially the beautiful Wave Petunias that are available at box retailers and area nurseries each spring, but the Cool Wave Pansies got past me as each fall I purchased four to five flats of pansies to line my front walkway for winter color. Over the past couple of winters, my regular pansies suffered from various set-backs, from deer munching on them to just not performing as well as I expected.
 
Cool Wave Pansies, perfect for containers, window boxes and hanging baskets, are my new go-to winter color. My 12 samples, mostly in shades of yellow, purple and white will replace my Kimberly ferns on my front porch as it gets cold. The ferns will be overwintered in the garage – watered regularly and brought outside for some sun on warmer days. 
 
In the meantime, the Cool Wave Pansies fill two big squat ceramic pots. They’ll provide plenty of color as they spread and trail over the edges. According to Cool Wave spokesperson Katie Rotella, they prefer four hours of sunlight, being kept moist but not soaked, and regular pinching back of spent blooms to discourage seed-pod development. An occasional “hair cut” to remove leggy stems will encourage increased growth from the centers of the plants. 
 
Hybridized to produce more than a dozen colors of blooms, they look more like large violas with blossoms slightly smaller than standard pansies. They won’t freeze or be damaged by frost; in fact, they’re cold-hardy to -20 degrees, much colder than our Georgia winters.
 
 Feed Cool Wave Pansies when you first plant them and again every two weeks with liquid fertilizer until the first hard frost. They will flourish until late spring when the day-time temperatures rise to 75 degrees. 
 
For more information about Cool Wave Pansies or other Wave plants, visit www.wave-rave.com. And look for them at our area nurseries and box retailers. They’re definitely a great addition for your winter color.
 
November Gardening Tips 
With our warmer fall this year, we’re really waiting for the right time to prune trees and shrubs. Once they are dormant, which means growth has slowed or stopped for winter, you can sharpen your clippers and pruners and go to work.
 
Remove any dead limbs and branches, cutting selectively rather than lopping off all branches to the same length. You’ll create a much more interesting plant profile by pruning rather than hedging.
 
Rake and clean up any leaves and put them in your compost. Turn them into the pile, then cover the pile with a tarp to encourage more heat that will help break down the components and protect it from too much rain that may wash away nutrients. Use the mature compost to amend vegetable gardens, flower beds and to top-dress around trees and shrubs next spring.
 
What not to prune: To have lush spring blossoms, do not prune azaleas, forsythia/yellow bells, hydrangeas or other spring-flowering shrubs. Wait until after they’ve bloomed and then prune to reshape and stimulate growth and bud production for the next year.
 
October 2018 colmun

Cooler weather gardening chores and tips

As the temperatures cool, it’s a great time for gardening. From “the best time to plant trees and shrubs” to just being able to work outdoors without the sweltering heat and humidity, get out your gardening tools, trimmers and gloves and lay the groundwork for a beautiful landscape next spring.
 
Planting trees and shrubs
Trees and shrubs go dormant in the fall and winter. That means you can install new landscape materials now. As the weather cools, the trees and shrubs will have a better chance of acclimating to their new locations. And while they will require regular watering, it’s much less stressful on them to plant them in the cooler seasons.
 
The secrets to success include selecting the right location in terms of sunlight and space. “Research the mature size and light requirements of trees and shrubs as you’re choosing the site and make sure that you select the appropriate site,” says Suzanne Brosche, owner of Art of Stone Landscaping, based in Dahlonega. “Trees need to have room to grow without being crowded. Plus, if they’re planted too close together, they will slowly compete for the nutrients in the soil and it will affect their overall health.” 
 
Suzanne suggests planting a variety of trees and shrubs – some that flower, some that are prized for their foliage and others that are evergreen to provide a good backdrop. “Magnolias, such as ‘Little Gem’ have beautiful glossy dark-green leaves and stunning large white flowers in the summer,” she says. “Most people immediately think of conifers or shrubs like Green Giant Thuja or Leyland Cypress, but there are so many non-conifer choices, such as camellias and azaleas that flower, and a wide variety of hollies. Flip through magazines or online to get some ideas.” 
 
Here are a couple of nearby nurseries that specialize in trees and shrubs: Kinsey Tree Farm and Landscape Nursery off Jot-’em Down Road in north Gainesville, Lanier Nursery and Gardens in Flowery Branch on Schubert Road, and Full Bloom Nursery in Clermont on Holly Spring Road. All three have good selections and very knowledgeable staff who can advise you about the right trees and shrubs for your landscape.
 
Miscellany 
If you have tender potted plants you want to overwinter, move them into a shady post for about two weeks before bringing them indoors. When they come inside, put them in a bright spot away from drafts. 
 
Wait until later in October to purchase your pansies or other winter annuals. With the warmer weather we’ve had, pansies prefer that the ground be a bit cooler when transplanted. When you plant them, water well and apply a water-soluble fertilizer.
 
Apply weed-preventer, such as Preen, to newly planted annual beds. This will prevent the germination of winter weeds without harming your pansies, Dusty Miller or ornamental cabbages, kale or Swiss chard.
 
Divide your daylily clumps and replant them this month. If they have more than six or so fans, they’re ready to be divided and transplanted to extend their summer color for next year.
 
Now that your summer perennials, such as daisies, cone flowers and black-eyed Susans, have stopped blooming, clean out your garden beds. Cut perennials back to the ground and discard the cuttings. If you have fruit trees, rake up the leaves and fallen fruit to help prevent disease and fungus next season. 
 
You can plant spring-flowering bulbs in October and November. Daffodils naturalized under trees and shrubs provide a pleasant surprise each spring. Don’t be alarmed if the foliage appears while the weather is still cold in January or February; the leaves can withstand cold, snow and ice and still bloom.
 
Sign up for gardening newsletters, such as The Georgia Gardener, www.walterreeves.com, and garden apps, including the always-updated “Great Garden Plants” app by Allan Armitage, UGA horticulturalist, author and gardening expert. It’s only $4.99 and is available either for iPhone or Android.

September 2018 column

Tips for extending your summer garden's last horrah

With the strong and steady hot summer and early fall, most of our annuals, perennials and vegetables may look a bit peaked this month. But you can stretch the growing season out a little more with some simple tips. 
 
There’s still time to fertilize your annuals and perennials for a bit more bloom. For quick results, choose a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle Grow. It can be applied using a hose-end sprayer or by mixing it according to the package instructions into a watering can and applying to each plant.
 
You can also use a granular fertilizer, but be sure to water it in well. Good choices include Milorganite, a slow-release organic fertilizer, or any of the Espoma “tone” types, which are also organic. The company makes different formulas for particular situations. For instance, “Holly-tone” is great for acid-loving plants, such as azaleas, camellias, evergreens, hollies and blueberries. “Plant-tone” for flowering plants and “Garden-tone” for vegetables both work well as all-purpose fertilizers. They’re safe to apply, they’re slow-release and provide plants with more nutrients and microbes than man-made chemical fertilizers.
 
Espoma makes a number of specialty formulas – Rose-tone, Bulb-tone, Tree-tone and Tomato-tone are just a few. If you can’t find them at your box retailer or area nursery, google them and find a source that offers free shipping.
 
You can also extend your flowering plants’ bloom season by deadheading, pinching or cutting off spent blooms so that the plant will use its energy to create more blossoms. Annuals such as salvia, Angelonia, marigolds, petunias and begonias, respond well to being pinched back. Also keep them well watered going into the fall and you’ll get another flush of blooms.
 
Save the brown flower heads from marigolds for next year’s seeds. Allow them to turn brown, then open them, spread them out and keep them in a cool, dry place until they dry out. Package them in plastic bags to store until next spring, when you can broadcast plant them in a well-prepared garden bed. 
 
Perennials, including coneflowers, tall phlox, blanket flowers, daisies, speedwells, black-eyed Susans and lavender, need some neatening up this month. Again, remove the dead flowerheads and remove brown foliage. Apply a light fertilizer and water regularly. Note that as the weather turns colder, you may need to cut back the brown stems and mulch lightly to protect them from frost. 
 
Dividing plants
September is a good time to divide clumps of plants, such as daylilies. If they are too crowded, you’ll see less blooms next year. This month the soil is still warm enough to encourage good root development. 
 
Here’s how: Dig up a clump of daylilies, allowing at least 10 inches between your shovel and the plants. Gently remove the dirt and spread out the roots, using the fans of leaves as a guide. Pull the roots apart, then replant each section at least 5 to 7 inches apart. Water well. This is a great way to expand your garden without spending any extra money. And, if you have friends who also garden, it’s fun to swap varieties with them.


August 2018 column

Gardening hacks for late summer, early fall

Sure, it’s hot outside. But that’s no excuse for neglecting your garden. If you’ve been watering regularly through the summer, you’ll still be rewarded with late tomatoes, green beans, peppers, squash and cucumbers. 
 
If the heat has gotten to your crop, there’s still time for a late summer/fall replacement garden. Plant squash and cucumbers seeds directly into the ground in raised mounds by the end of the month. Since they mature around 55 to 60- days after planting you’re safe from the threat of first frost, which is typically around early to mid-November. Just be sure to keep them well watered as they grow and keep an eye out for insects, such as squash borers that affect the stems of the plant. If you find insects, treat with Sevin dust, following the directions on the package. Yes, you can use Sevin on edible plants. The packaging will give you quantities, methods of application and cautions. 
 
You can also start seeds for your cool-weather crops, such as broccoli, collards and kale in August. Choose a shady place outdoors and use seeding flats, peat pots, or egg cartons and fill with good soil. Make sure the containers have adequate drainage. The late summer heat, with the plants in the shade, will provide the warmth and humidity that the seeds need to sprout, and by starting the seeds early, they will be ready to set out into the garden in September and October.
 
Fill the containers with good moist soil, then place one to two seeds in each pot or section of the egg carton, just barely covering them with soil. Water gently and thoroughly; using a mister is best. Be sure to label the containers when you plant the seeds, so you’ll know what you have planted.
 
Go ahead and prepare your garden space so that when it comes time to transplant the seedlings, you’ll be ready. Break up any large clumps, add organic matter and a light application of 10-10-10 fertilizer. When the seedlings have grown at least two pairs of leaves, not including the initial two that are the result of the seed sprouting, you can set them out in the garden. Plant them in rows and space the plants according to the instructions on the seed packets. Apply a little starter solution as you transplant.
 
Kale will mature in 55-70 days; collards will be ready to pick at between 60 and 85 days. Broccoli will be ready to harvest from seeds at between 100 and 150 days. Other plants to consider include cauliflower, chard, cabbage and turnips. Don’t worry about these vegetables being affected by frost or freezing temperatures. The foliage may become a bit burned, but the plants will survive.
 
If you’re not sold on starting your vegetable plants from seeds, fall will be here before you know it. Then you can buy starter plants for your cool-season vegetables at area box retailers. No matter what you choose, there’s nothing better than vegetables picked fresh from the garden.
 

July 2018 column

Growing green? Thank a Master Gardner

From teaching youngsters about where their food comes from to helping community groups create gardens, hundreds of Master Gardeners in Lumpkin/Dawson, Hall and Forsyth counties constantly give back to the community. With a goal of education, training and helping expand the reach and service of the University of Georgia extension, committed volunteers in these three groups literally give thousands of volunteer hours each year.
 
The Georgia Mountains Master Gardeners, based in Lumpkin/Dawson counties, has an active Junior Master Gardener program at Lumpkin Elementary School for students in 3rd through 5th grade. “Our program dovetails with the school’s curriculum for science,” said Kathy Sawicki, publicity chair for the group. “This program has so many benefits, from getting kids outdoors to learning how to grow plants, the role of pollinators and how to recycle.”
 
The outdoor classroom has raised beds; last year the students grew collard greens that the school cafeteria prepared and served. “Everyone got to taste what they had grown,” she said. “It’s so rewarding to see youngster get interesting in playing in the dirt and gardening. When they start at a young age, they gain a good appreciation of nature, where their food comes from and that they can do so many things outdoors.”
 
The Georgia Mountains Master Gardeners offers intern classes for adults every couple of years, based on demand. For more information about this group, contact Kathy at 478 213-9467 or visit the group’s website at www.gammg.org
 
Forsyth County Extension sponsors both Master Gardener and Master Naturalists training classes at various times. Bill Roper is president of the Forsyth organization which has nearly 100 active members. “Our biggest program is our ‘Garden Digs,’ where we help other organizations create gardens,” he said. “We work at senior centers, local churches and with other groups to help them organize their gardens, plus we provide advisers and grants. Our goal is to teach them how to set up and maintain a garden.” 
 
Two notable programs at the Forsyth County Libraries and at The Place (an assistance organization) have provided a platform for the volunteers to give back and for the community to participate in gardening. The Forsyth Master Gardeners has also begun offering scholarships to high school students who want to pursue a career in horticulture or a related field.
 
For more information, call 770 888-7490 or visit the group’s website at http://ugamg.org
For many years, Hall County Master Gardeners have been among the most active Master Gardner groups in Georgia. With more than 150 active members, the organization has been doing Junior Master Gardeners programs in Hall County schools. It also hosts two plant sales each year at Chicopee Woods Agricultural Center in the spring and fall and a biennial garden tour of private gardens in the area. 
 
“Our group supports more than two dozen community projects, from the Wilshire Park and Gardens on Green to our newest – Cherokee Bluffs and Roberts Cabin in South Hall,” said Patti Lewis, this year’s president. “We’ll be planting native and aesthetic plants, medicinal plants and the kinds that would have been used when the cabin was in its most active time.” 
 
Hall County typically offers an intern class annually. Applications are accepted in the fall and the new training class takes place from January through March. “Becoming a Master Gardener is beneficial on so many levels,” Patti said. “It brings together people of like minds who enjoy gardening, it provides a chance to give back to the community. It offers ways for people to spread their love of gardening through education. And it is a place where many of us make life-long friends.”
 
To learn more about Hall County Master Gardeners, call 770 535-8293 or visit www.hallmastergardeners.com. All these Master Gardeners groups have plant sales and provide volunteers to answer telephones at their local extension office to answer gardening questions from the public. They also host monthly meetings for members, plus periodic social events.
 
To learn more about Master Gardeners in your area, call 1-800-ASK-UGA1. This number will connect you to your local office.


June 2018 column

Attract birds, bees and pollinators during National Pollinator Week June 18-24

Without the birds, the bees and other pollinators, we earthlings wouldn’t have the diverse foods that we enjoy. Pollination accounts for the successful production of fruit and vegetable crops around the world. 
 
Each June, the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign, www.pollinator.org, spearheads National Pollinator Week each June. This year the event takes place from June 18-24 through more than 170 events across 42 states, Puerto Rico and Canada to draw attention to the importance of pollinators. 
 
“More than 75 percent of all crops require natural pollination,” said Dolores Savignano, climate change coordinator with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Division of Fisheries and Habitat Conservation. She encourages people to make their landscapes pollinator-friendly. 
 
Honeybees enable the production of at least 90 commercially grown crops in North America, according to a White House fact sheet. Globally, 87 of the leading 115 food crops are dependent on animal pollinators, the fact sheet noted. It said pollinators contribute more than $24 billion to the U.S. economy, with honeybees responsible for more than $15 billion of that through their vital role in keeping fruits, nuts and vegetables in our diets. Native wild pollinators – such as bumblebees and alfalfa leafcutter bees – account for the balance. 
 
“Finding plants that attract natural pollinators to your landscape can encourage the continued populations of pollinators, such as bees, butterflies and even some birds,” said Chris Heim, district manager of residential and commercial services with The Davey Tree Company. “Native trees are always a good choice, such as native oaks, red buds and Southern magnolias. By adding these trees to your landscape, you’re encouraging pollinators and providing shelter for wildlife.” 
 
Heim said that the best time to plant trees and shrubs is in the fall, when the temperatures are cooler, and the plants are approaching dormancy. “You will have more success when you plant in the late fall,” he said. “Plus, it’s important to prepare the planting site by incorporating organic materials and digging the hole about two times wider than the root ball. Be sure to untangle any roots that have become twisted and confined, so that they will more naturally grow into the soil. Be sure to keep new plantings adequately watered.”
 
For instant color and long-lasting rewards, blooming summer perennials are excellent selections to create a pollinator habit. Area nurseries and box retailers sell cone flowers, cardinal flowers, blanket flowers and lantana that will come back year after year with little or no maintenance, other than clean-up in the winter. 
 
Create a pollinator garden
You can participate in the Million Pollinator Garden Challenge to help create a million such gardens across the U.S. Visit www.millionpollinatorgardens.org
 
In the meantime, if you’re serious about attracting pollinators, here are some tips from the US Department of Agriculture/Forest Service:
  • Consider plants with a range of bloom seasons from spring through fall. Include both daytime and night-blooming species.
  • Pollinators more easily find plants in clumps rather than single plants. This also makes caring for your garden easier.
  • Choose native varieties of plants rather than their “prettier” hybridized relatives.
  • Mix in annuals, perennials, flowering shrubs and trees.

Check with your area’s extension office or a Master Gardener for a list of the best natives to plant to attract your region’s pollinators. Keep in mind that some may be considered weeds in your area. Provide a water source for pollinators. You can put a bird bath directly on the ground or install a drip irrigation line. Add a bit of salt or wood ashes to the damp area.
 
Do not remove dead trees or branches. They may become attractive nesting options for bees. Avoid using pesticides. If you must use them, read the label for the least-toxic to wildlife. Spray at night when bees are not active.
 
Learn more about pollinators by reading guidebooks about bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

May 2018 column

Gardening: Innovative ideas and best books

Spring has definitely sprung at last, and with it has come a plethora of great gardening books. From growing vegetables without soil to planting in specially conditioned straw bales, gardening experts have been busy. 
 
One of my favorites, “Straw Bale Gardens” by Joel Karsten, now has a companion book: “Straw Bale Solutions.” The new book, just out in March from Cool Springs Press, provides plenty of tips for successful fruit, vegetable and flower gardening using straw bales as an alternative growing medium. If you’ve got substandard soil – like we do here in Northeast Georgia – straw bales provide a pretty fool-proof way to get great yields without the backbreaking work of building raised beds or digging out hard clay and replacing it with good soil. 
 
Karsten developed the method more than a decade ago after years of experimenting on his father’s farm in Minnesota. “People around the world have been growing in straw bales and seeing amazing results,” Karsten says. “Whether you’ve got rocky or poor soil, issues with space, or you just want to try something new, straw bale gardening provides high yields faster without soil and without weeding.” 
 
Here’s the process: start with large, compact bales of wheat straw. Place them in rows end to end in a location that gets at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. A layer of landscape cloth beneath each row will help prevent weeds from coming up through the ground and keep the surface below protected. Make the rows at least six feet apart to allow room for maneuvering between them.
 
Have a water source nearby; you’ll be watering frequently. Evenly apply about a half-cup per bale of inexpensive lawn fertilizer without weed killers or herbicides and water it in thoroughly until water runs out of the bottom.
 
Over the next 10 to 14 days you’ll be soaking the bales, and every couple of days you’ll add more fertilizer before watering. “The key is to create a nutrient-rich planting medium,” Karsten says. “It’s similar to making compost; bacteria and microbes decompose the straw, breaking it down and creating warmth. By the time you’ve conditioned the bales, the straw biologically becomes excellent growing medium that will support plant growth.” 
 
Then plant seedlings – tomatoes, pepper plants, beans, squash – into the bale, digging out a hole and transplanting them, soil and all. Water well. Don’t let bales dry out. You’ll be amazed at the garden’s productivity. 
 
Check out other Cool Springs Publishing books like “DIY Hydroponic Gardens” by Tyler Baras to learn how to grow plants in water; “Container Gardening Complete” by Jessica Walliser; “Vegetables Love Flowers: Companion Planting for Beauty and Bounty” by Lisa Ziegler; “Compositing for a New Generation” by Michelle Balz and Anna Stockton. 
 
Other books of note with Georgia roots include anything written by Walter Reeves, www.walterreeves.com, and Allan Armitage, founder of the University of Georgia Trial Gardens. Reeves offers a free bi-weekly online newsletter and has a weekly radio show on Saturdays from 6 to 9 a.m. on News 95.5/AM750 WSB. Armitage recently released a mobile app that answers many garden questions about plants and where they grow best. It’s $4.99 at iTunes or play.google.com. It’s a great way to have a wealth of garden knowledge at your fingertips. 
 
Joe Lamp’l’s www.joegardener.com website, and his free weekly newsletter, provide excellent resources for all things gardening. His website: www.growingagreenerworld.com includes podcasts and all the latest in gardening techniques. By the way, he lives in North Georgia and has been a national gardening television host for more than a decade.
 
Now that our temperatures have settled from the roller-coaster ride of February, March and April, let’s get growing.


April 2018 column

Green side up for the best lawns this spring and summer

Finally, spring! With this year’s ups and downs of the thermometer, we’ve just about lost our patience, but even though Georgia’s last official frost date is April 15, you can still get out in your yard. Let’s talk about lawns. Spring is the transition between the cool-season fescue and the warm-season grasses Bermuda and zoysia. Fescue will hold up until it gets really hot, but you can stretch its green season with proper watering, regular care and mowing to the proper height. 
 
“We recommend mowing about once a week for fescue,” said Steve Mitchell with King Green, based in Gainesville. “We also suggest that people aerate their warm-season grasses as soon as you can while the grass is just starting to green up. This allows water and nutrients to get to the roots and will thicken Bermuda and zoysia lawns.” 
 
It’s really too late to putdown pre-emergents to address crabgrass, goose grass and other grasses and broadleaf weeds once we’re into April. “Pre-emergents really should be put down in February or early March to prevent these weeds from sprouting,” Mitchell said. “If not, you may need simply pull the weeds and get ahead of them before the weather turns really warm.” 
 
You can also use a lawn-safe post-emergent to keep these broadleaf weeds at bay. Be sure to read all labels carefully because not all post-emergents are alike. Some are formulated for use on Bermuda, others for zoysia. And be sure to mix them exactly as the label instructs; too much of a good thing can be harmful to your lawn.
 
Proper mowing heights are important to help grass through the heat and possible drought of summers in Northeast Georgia. fescue like to be mowed to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Warm-season grasses like Bermuda and zoysia thou be mowed a bit shorter. Common Bermuda should be cut to 1 to 2 inches; hybrid Bermuda and zoysia should be cut even shorter to .5 to 1.5 inches. 
 
Having a lawn service can help with weed control, proper fertilization and other tasks that can seem mundane but are necessary to ensure a beautiful green lawn. Charlie King founded King Green in the basement of his home in 1987 and since then has provided service with six locations in Georgia and another in North Carolina. The company serves residential and commercial accounts.
 
“The healthier you can keep your lawn, the better it will perform,” Mitchell said. Between proper mowing, the right amount of water and fertilizing when it’s needed, you can have a beautiful lawn and be the envy of your neighborhood.” 
 
Go native for garden success
Native plants, those that are indigenous to our soil and climate conditions, can be the best solution for beautifying your landscape. The Georgia Native Plant Society, www.gnps.org, is an excellent resource for finding out about natives for shade, sun and soil types. 
 
Some natives are invasive and should be avoided in the garden, such as kudzu – not that you’d plant kudzu in your garden – Chinese wisteria, English ivy, bamboo and even the beautiful roadside Queen Anne’s Lace. 
 
Non-invasives include native azaleas, American beautyberry, sweet spire, and sweet shrub.
If you want to add natives to your garden, check out the area’s newest nursery, Lanier Nursery and Gardens in Flowery Branch/Oakwood. Owner Nathan Wilson specializes in native trees, shrub, perennials and other plants that grow well in our climate. The nursery is located at 4195 Schubert Road in Flowery Branch. Info: www.laniernurserygrdens.com.

March 2018 column

Spring clean: Outdoor living is just around the corner

The good news is: Lake Lanier’s finally above full winter pool, thanks to all the winter rains. The other good news is that soon you’ll be outdoors and enjoying spring and summer. But will you be ready? When was the last time you had your dock, porches, home exterior and steps/stairs to the lake inspected or/or repaired? 
 
“Now is a good time to make sure your decks, steps and porches inspected,” said Dave Whitaker, owner of Wit Service Corp that specializes in building and repairing decks, porches and dock steps. “For one, it’s better to get a safety inspection and make any repairs or improvements before the warmer weather, and most contractors probably have more availability before the peak season.”
 
Contractors like Wit Service Corp can make sure decks, porches and homes are in good repair by replacing rotten wood, checking for lose nails and even filling holes created by carpenter bees that may weaken construction.” The company also designs and builds decks, porches and stairs to help you maximize your outdoor assets. Adding or extending outdoor living space can mean more enjoyment in the spring, summer and fall. 
 
Whitaker said that perhaps decks’ and home exteriors’ biggest enemy is water, and sometimes it takes a professional to assess whether there is damage. Safety it also a concern. “Water is the death of wood so it’s important to maintain wood construction on an ongoing basis, and termites love wet wood,” Whitaker said. “Over time, sunlight, water and other elements can contribute to deterioration of wood and outdoor materials,” Whitaker said. “General maintenance can go a long way toward protecting your investment for the long term and ensuring that your decks and stairs are safe.” 
 
Another issue that many homeowners neglect is the proper installation of mulch. “Leave at least a 4-inch gap between the foundation of your home and the mulch,” he said. “Keep it away from your house to discourage wood-to-ground contact. Even Masonite that stays wet can deteriorate over time.” 
 
The company can also install low-voltage lighting to light pathways and patios. Founded in 1998, the company is based in Gainesville and serves Lake Lanier and the surrounding area. for more information, call 404 277-0345. 
 
Is your yard pet-friendly?
Here are a few tips from the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute to have a pet-friendly yard:
• Create a dog-friendly back yard by using sturdy turf grass, plants with soft foliage, a water station and an “approved” place for digging. 
• Use plants to create a sense of boundaries and train your dog to avoid them. 
• Avoid toxic plants, such as hostas, lilies, morning glories, chrysanthemums and daffodils.
• Check your fence and make any necessary repairs.
• Does your dog have it made in the shade? Design and install specific shade areas for your dog to escape the summer heat and have a nice place for a nap.
 
For more information, visit www.SaveLivingLandcsapes.com.






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